Tea-time history at Jorhat

A 3 hour flight lands me at Guwahati from where begins a long drive to Jorhat and further on to the innards of rural Assam. I drive past golden paddy fields lit by the golden rays of a setting sun. The fields are manned by peasants hard at work during the harvest season, with gamchas…

Majuli – birds, satras and tribes

This is my first trip to Assam and both my husband and I were unanimous in picking Majuli as our must-see destination in Assam. Majuli is locally the title holder of the largest river islands in the world, but more likely the largest only in India. Nestled as it is between the channels of the…

To be or not to be an Indian…The Naga Issue

My interactions with various people within Nagaland woke me up to a completely new side of India. An India that is fiercely fought for on maps, but remains a part of India merely on maps. An India that feels different, looks different and brings to my mind the essential question of what does it mean…

Solo thoughts

I embarked on a solo trip for the first time. With some trepidation and a lot of excitement. After all, Croatia makes it to the top of the list when it comes to solo travel for women – so there was more cause for excitement than fear. It’s common to expect solo travel to either…

Baby Taj – Memories of the “Cushion-cover” Empress

My trip to Agra sat on the shelf for several years. More exotic destinations won over the beauty of the Taj and the benefits of proximity. The trip finally got fixed, goaded by a desire to get away from truckloads of work and also to spend time with my 6 month old nephew on his…

Diwali shopping opens my eyes

I unexpectedly experienced a tourist like moment in my own city, Mumbai. In fact, in my own backyard – the worli bazaar. A typical Indian market, the only reason I made quick, rushed visits to this bazaar was to pick up flowers. Beyond that, I had little reason to lounge around. After all, the bazaar…

Off the beaten path in Greece: Zagori

A hidden gem behind the mountains: Zagori means the place or land behind the mountains. In this remote part of Greece, often called “Zagorohoria”, I fell in love with Greece. I am a history buff and having grown up reading Homeric verses and Greek myths, I thought Classical Greece would dominate my experience of Greece….

Legacies stolen, Legacies lost

Walking around the ancient monuments of Greece is a source of both joy and pain. The sites resonate with a strong sense of history – not just mythos as the greeks would say. I explore with awe and feel an ancient presence. Zeus, Apollo, Athina, Herakles, Artemis, Poseidon, Achilles – names made familiar by books,…

Travel Photography: Don’t say cheese!

They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. I say a 1000 pictures can’t capture an experience. Why this bitter tirade against photography, you may ask? For someone who hasn’t so far travelled without a camera and competes hard with her spouse for the best photos of the trip, I certainly made it over…

Kashmir

I land at the airport, unusually greeted by the sight of army bunkers, armed troops and a strange excitement in my heart at the prospect of having made my first trip to Kashmir. Kashmir holds the title of the most romantic destinations in India – glorified of course by the bollywood of the 70s. Its…

Jordan through the eyes of a Palestinian

2013. Jordan through the eyes of a Palestinian. My driver, Ahmad. Quite appropriate – given that the “Jordan is Palestine, Palestine is Jordan” argument has several supporters. My strongest impression about Jordan is the omni-present problem of Israel. Throughout my Jordan trip, I had to be careful about what to call the disputed land –…